Most helpful client reviews
16 of 17 people found the following review helpful.
Close, but won’t fly
By D. Basye
The rotor blades look fine. However, when I installed them on my son’s helicopter, the helicopter wouldn’t get off the ground. It’s spinning in the right direction, and it is close to lifting off, but just not quite. The new blade doesn’t look any heavier than the original, but both are so light that it is hard to tell. Maybe weight combined with a little dissimilar lift angle on the blade is just sufficient to prevent it from flying.
11 of 11 humans found the following review helpful.
These fit a Yiboo Mini EuroTiger Airsquire
By Tim C
I purchased this as a alternate for a Yiboo mini Euro Tiger Airsquire, which broke one of the connecting arms amidst the main rotor and stabilizing bar. These new rotors have a more or less dissimilar stabilizer – it has more of a wing profile than the firstborn type. I wasn’t sure if they would work but for $4 what is there to lose?
Once fitted, the helicopter flies a lot a better than it ever did before! It is much more stable and doesn’t veer off into the wall when attempting to take off (which is what broke my firstborn rotor). Some reviewers here said that their models would not fly any more because of the weight of the new rotors, but the Yiboo is OK.
No instructions came with the new rotors so here’s what worked for me (For the Yiboo anyway). Getting the old rotor off is not easy! If the old rotor will not plainly pull off:
Cut throughout the plastic shaft of the old rotor just underneath the stabilizer bar, and above the tell tale hole with wire cutters or similar. You may now remove the stabilzer and main rotor. Don’t cut any lower as you’ll cut through the metal drive shaft. This leaves the plastic shaft which is percentage of the rotor around an inner metal shaft which conencts to the drive motor. You must be careful not to bend or harm the metal shaft.
Cut along the length of the remaining plastic shaft with a craft knife. It takes assorted cuts to get through. I made two cuts 180 degrees apart. Be careful not to cut yourself! You may now peel the two halves of the remains of the plastic shaft away from the metal inner shaft. I couldn’t get all the way to the end of the plastic as it was within the body of the helicopter. Cutting as far down as I could, and peeling away freed the plastic share from the metal shaft and I was competent to pull the remains of plastic away from the metal inner shaft. This method completely destroys the old rotor of course, but I’m assuming you’re replacing it because it is already damaged.
The new rotor just pushed onto the shaft rather easily. I employed washing up liquid to ease it on and the pressure of my finger and thumb was sufficient. You know it is on far sufficient when you may see the metal inner shaft through the tell tale hole.
I can’t guarantee that this method will work for all brands of Electric Helicopter, but it may provide a lot of tips. Good luck and happy flying.
12 of 13 persons found the following review helpful.
Correct percentage for PicooZ or Air Hog Havoc
By xsundeep
This is the rectify part if you have a PicooZ/Air Hog Havoc 2-ch heli.
Make sure that the rotor fits snugly, because a loose fit will not provide adequate lift to get your heli up and running even altho the rotors seem to spun . You likewise have to adjust trim and make sure that the tail rotor is clean of wrapped hair or fuzz, and utterly perpendicular to the main rotor- these are necessary for proper functioning of the heli, and quintessentially have to be checked/adjusted after each crash.
This substitute is unquestionably sturdier than the introductory rotor, as well as the single spare that came with the initial heli.
This product has restored my little heli to full function and made me a happy little child again, much to my wife’s chagrin.
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